We started a little later today, as the writing and editing backlog kept me up a little later than expected. But good headway was made, and hopefully you shall see the results soon, if not right now. So many photographs to choose from, as Lahore is such an interesting place, and editing becomes a very daunting task for the weary when you shoot a few thousand images in a day.
Our first stop of the day was an open air marketplace, where there happened to be a large collection of domestic horses. Being the poor beasts who brave the hectic traffic and bear their load burden, this is where they come to rest and eat. As Ansari said, it is like a horse parking lot. Adjacent to this horse lot, there was a grip of chickens stuffed into cages, baskets, and even what looked like fishing nets. They seemed placid and peaceful, almost accepting of their fates. Zen chickens or not, I have never seen so many chickens crammed into one net, if at all, or even into one truck.
Horse Parking Only
Zen Chickens in Meditation Nets
Wandering the streets and alleyways, we met many interesting people, and saw some very character rich faces. People’s reaction to us being there seemed like a mix of confusion, curiosity, and fear for our safety. Ducking down one alleyway, we found an old white marble mosque that had recently been restored to some of its’ former glory. The quality of light in there was amazing, and coupled with the powerful mosaics and and classic architecture, it became one of my favorite places in the city very quickly. There is an air to these mosques that I really like, and even feel very spiritual in, something that many churches I have been to in my life lack. Perhaps it is the grandiose, and ancient aura that makes them feel so powerful. Regardless, being in some of them has made me want to pray, and even live a more pious life myself.
Bearded Brady in the White Marble Mosque
This is Ansari, our guide and protector. He is a good man.
We also visited the Wazir Khan mosque, which was built in 1637, and was named after the Governor Chief at the time. There I met a few fellow Pakistani flickr members, who led me to a few secret, padlocked photo locations. Photography is most definitely an international language and source of camaraderie. And carrying all of my big cameras and lenses around makes everyone that that I am a “newsman.” What channel am I from? they ask. Sometimes I wonder myself…
Fellow Pakistani Flickr’ers in the Wazir Khan Mosque
Wazir Khan Mosque
After our mosquepade, we went to the Lahore Fort, a huge and impressive fortress built by Mughals in the 16th century. Complete with looming gates, battlements, cannons, bridges, and even steps for army elephants, it embodies the meaning of the word fort. But inside its’ walls are many gardens, courtyards, temples, and mosques. They had an antique bazaar of sorts, where I managed to find some 500 year old copper coins, in hopes that my sister might make something out of them for me. We had lunch at a restaurant that overlooked the fort, as well as the adjacent Badshehi Mosque. Once again, the call to prayer from the mosque put me in a trance, while we savored the mutton karahi and tika hondi.
The front of Lahore Fort
Stairs for Army Elephants
When we finished lunch, there was a group of traditional drummers and horse dancers waiting for us by a massive gate that leads to the fort. This tradition was a Punjab creation, and is a very ancient practice. The horses are dressed in red and gold shining fabrics, and have a myriad of bells attached to their shins and ankles. There were two drummers, each playing a dhol (or membranophone as some know it) which were the souls of this performance. The horses, seeming to border on complete madness, hardly seemed controlled by the 3 or 4 men who were switching off holding the reins. The horses would rear up, stomp their feet, and crouch and jump repeatedly as a form of dance, all the while bells ringing, and drums pounding. Although I got some good photographs, it was an experience that would best be captured on video, given the frantic motion and exotic sounds. We had to flee the scene, as a swarm of men started harassing Ansari for more money than we had already agreed to pay them. It got heated very quickly, so we literally ran away, the drummers following us, still playing in hopes that we might pay them more money.
Dancing Mad Horses
Dhol Players
Since we had such an amazing experience the first time, we decided to go back to the flag lowering ceremony on the border, but this time so I could film it in HD. While trying to convince the guards at the roadblock that I was not media with my big cameras, lenses, microphones, and tripod, one of the soldiers from the night before recognized us, and waved us over. He said that he wanted to help me make my movie, so he escorted us to the very front section, which is normally reserved for government officials. The place was not nearly crowded as the night before, but there were still easily a thousand or so people there. The ceremony was just as dazzling the second time, though not as loud. But I got great video of the whole thing, so I will get that posted as soon as I can.
Old Man Pakistan
We got some great Traffikstan footage on the Grand Trunk Road back into town, and had a few laughs while we were at it. The hectic traffic seriously never ceases to amaze me. To cap the night off, we made a short stop at a semi-shady underground hookah bar, where we were bludgeoned with uncensored T-Payne songs at an unnecessary volume while we puffed on strawberry sheesha amidst the glow of moving lights. The electronic whir of the disco light machine was really prevalent when the raunchy, slamming rap songs would momentarily stop. In that moment of motorized silence, I had time to reflect on the irony of an uncensored version of “I Want to F**K You” being played in an Islamic Republic.
Strawberry Clouds
Hookah Bars are cool, I swear.
