On our drive into Lahore, we witnessed a complete transformation of the landscape and climate. There were vast green fields of crops and flowers, livestock, and homesteads that exuded serenity as they zipped past our hired car windows. As we approached town, a fruit cart on the side of the road was glowing with vibrancy in the noonday sun, and both Brady and I shouted at the driver to turn around so we could go photograph it. What followed was the first of many of our interactions with the people of Lahore’s streets. These two men were warm and receptive to us, and kept insisting that we take more shots. We bought some fruit from them, and then headed to our hotel.
After checking in, and taking some much needed rest, we met our guide Ansari, who is to take us around the city for the next 4 days. We discussed the potential activities, our photographic interests, and some background information about ourselves. Ansari recommended that we not say we were Americans, so from that point on we were Tanzanians (we are at heart anyways). Ansari is a very soft spoken and kind hearted Pakistani man from the Punjab province, and has lived most of his life in Lahore. He used to thrive as a tour guide here, as tourism was aplenty in Pakistan until September 11th, 2001. Things have been quite difficult for him since then, and so he was very glad to have us as his guests.
Our first stop was the Lahore Museum, which had many relics and artifacts from the Mughal, Shah, and Khan eras. It is easily the most interesting museum that I have ever set foot in, having jewelry, weapons, sculptures, instruments, and scrolls from as far back as the 1st and 2nd centuries. One of the most striking and famous pieces of art in the museum was a sculpture of the fasting buddha, which is believed to date back to the 15th century. A breathtaking sculpture, but not the best that Siddhartha has ever looked.
Lahore Musem
Fasting Buddha Sculpture
From there we went to the famous Shalamar Gardens, which were built by Shah Jahan as a peaceful meeting place back in 1642. Full of beautifully lush foliage, marble archways, carved wooden gates and doors, and ancient temples, it is no wonder that it is famous. As I photographed the beauty of this place, my methods became of interest to a group of young Pakistani men, who began following me around and cheering as they saw each shot on my viewfinder. This quickly and strangely became an impromptu photo shoot for all of them, complete with cell phone soundtrack, jaunting cheers, and even an amateur strip dance. As the clothes came off and the muscles came out, the sun was setting, and it was time for us to go. We had a flag lowering ceremony to attend…
Shalamar Gardens
Pakistani Muscle Man
Double Bicep
Taking the grand trunk road towards the border, we knew nothing of what to expect. Ansari assured us that we would really enjoy it, and so we blindly trusted, and walked unexpectedly into one of the most exciting spectacles that I have ever seen. As we approached, we could hear the roaring and cheering of a large crowd, shouting Pakistan! Pakistan! We were ushered through a blockade and down a street lined on both sides with proud Pakistanis shouting in joy and competition for their country. We were sat in a section for foreign nationals, close to the heavily armed gates that separates Pakistan from India. Between the 2 gates, flag poles with Pakistan and India’s flags on them, and on the other side of the gate, India, and another large crowd cheering for their own country.
What followed was one of the most dazzling and colorful military rituals that I have laid eyes on, and the rivalry between the two countries fueled it. There were bulking and intimidating Pakistani soldiers, lavishly dressed and decorated, that would high step and shout back and forth, stomping their feet and displaying their strength. The gates were opened, Pakistan and India’s soldiers faced off, stomping and strutting back and forth inches away from each other, and prepared to lower their flags as the sun set. A man wearing a green Pakistan jacket had a large flag, and was dancing and shouting, leading the rambunctious crowd in cheers and songs in support of the troops. After a series of military routines, all lauded by wild applause, they began to sound trumpets and lower the flags. When the flags were lowered, troops at the gate faced off once more in a stomp and stare competition, and then slammed the gates closed. The crowd stood while the Pakistan national anthem was played, the flag folded, and then cheered as the flag was high stepped all the way back to the military post. It was an amazing display of military flamboyance and border rivalry, and a unique example of Pakistani pride.
Military Stomp Off
Tariq the Giant Pakistani Border Soldier
Following another amusing ride on the grand truck road, we had dinner at a traditional Pakistani restaurant, and enjoyed the local folk music that was being played there. We were exhausted after such a long and eventful day, and I spent the rest of the evening editing photographs and writing this in an effort to encapsulate such an amazing day.
If you wish to see them, more images of the flag lowering ceremony are posted on flickr
